by Lisa Sykes, Eco-Friendly Specialist for Universal Companies and GSN Member

Natural and organic skin care claims are exceedingly abundant in the spa industry, and most professionals are confused by the barrage of floral advertisements that confront them at tradeshows, in magazines, and on the web. Apprehensive clients often turn to us for guidance, but where do we get our guidance? We certainly can’t rely on the FDA, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, or the manufacturer.  But, don’t worry--there is hope! The following simple steps will provide you with enough courage and tenacity to go beyond those arbor-rich, earth-toned labels and see what’s really inside those bottles and tubes. 

I.  Determine what kind of product you would like to incorporate into your treatments and retail area: Natural, organic, or both? Contrary to popular thought, natural and organic are not the same thing. The term “natural” means that a product is derived from plants (or animals) but the ingredients aren’t tainted by chemicals used in certain manufacturing processes. The term “organic” applies to plants grown and managed using organic agricultural methods as characterized by organic third party certification bodies; manufacturing processes also vary per organic certification body.

II.  Look for the appropriate third party certification on the label: Once you’ve decided which kinds of products to incorporate, look for the appropriate certification on the label. Third party certification boards are unbiased, independent boards that require manufacturers to undergo evaluations to verify that a given set of standards are met. For example, if you’re looking for natural products, you’ll seek the following seals: NPA, BDIH, and NaTrue. For organic, you’ll pursue USDA NOP, Soil Association, and NSF.  For natural and organic, NaTrue has standards for both. Please be advised, though, that there are dozens of third party certification seals, and you can research their criteria online. 

III. No third party certification seal? This doesn’t necessarily mean that a product is inferior.  Begin examining the ingredients. If a brand only lists the active ingredients, ask for the entire list. Active ingredients are rarely an issue—it’s the inactives that incite concern. Avoiding products with synthetic fragrances and artificial dyes is a good first step, but you can take it a bit further by reviewing the handy list below for the top twelve ingredients to avoid when choosing skin and body care products; we call the “Dirty Dozen Plus.”

1.Parabens (ethyl-, methyl-, isobutyl-, propyl-, and butyl) are esters of benzoic acid. They have been linked to endocrine disruption due to their ability to mimic the body’s own estrogenic activity, which, according some studies, contributes to breast cancer.

2.Propylene glycol is a petrochemical used in some products as a humectant or skin conditioning agent.  It is also found in extracts and will be listed as lavender, propylene glycol-, which means lavender is extracted with the propylene glycol. Propylene glycol promotes skin irritation, especially in those who suffer from eczema. 

3.Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS) is a very popular surfactant used in bubble bath and body wash. Aside from its tendency to dry skin and hair, it may also be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane*.  While the ingredient itself is relatively harmless, the possibility that it may contain 1,4-dioxane is reason enough to avoid it.

4. Phthalates (DBP, DMP, DEP), used as plasticizing agents and fragrance ingredients, are known as endocrine disrupters. Studies have also connected them to developmental and reproductive toxicity. Examples include dibutyl phthalate, found in nail polish, and diethyl phthalate, used as fragrance in some bath salts.

5. Nanoparticles are used in sunscreens and face creams to block UV rays and increase penetration of active ingredients, but they are under scrutiny because they are untested and safety concerns are being raised by consumer advocates over issues of greater absorption of chemicals into the skin, increased production of free radicals, and worker protection.

6. DEA/TEA/MEA (di- , tri-, and monoethanolamine)  are found in a wide range of popular skin and body care products. These are ammonia compounds that work as pH adjusters and surfactants. These ingredients trigger dermatitis and strip the skin of its natural oils. Another major concern for these compounds is nitrosamines contamination from the manufacturing process; nitrosamines have been linked with cancer and developmental and reproductive toxicity.  The most common of these compounds is TEA (triethanolamine), widely used in facial cleansers, body wash, and exfoliants.

7. Coal Tar Derivatives (D&C dyes and toluene) are bituminous coal by-products. Coal tar ingredients are also frequently tested on animals due to their carcinogenic and toxic nature.

8. Formaldehyde/Formaldehyde Donors (diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, Quaternium-15, and Bronopol) are often used as preservative systems.  In their haste to dump parabens from their formulas, some skin and body care companies adopted the use of formaldehyde derivatives instead. Formaldehyde can cause contact dermatitis, and the EPA classifies it as a probable human carcinogen. 

9. Hydroquinone is banned in Europe, Japan, and Australia because research has shown it to be a cancer-causing chemical. Hydroquinone is used in skin lightening products as a bleaching agent.

10. BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) is used as a fragrance ingredient.  It has been linked to cancer, toxicity, and bioaccumulation.

11. Octoxynols are generally followed by a number such as “Octoxynol-9”.  They’re surfactants that have been linked to a host of health concerns, including cancer, developmental toxicity, and endocrine disruption. There is also concern over possible 1,4-dioxane* contamination.

12. Ethyl acetate is a widely used fragrance ingredient in nail products and cleansers, but it is also used as a solvent. Strong concerns for this ingredient include skin, eyes, and lung irritation. 

13. PEGs are polyethylene glycols. They are usually followed by a number such as “PEG-150”. Generally, PEGs are used as humectants and solvents in facial cleansers, moisturizers, and body wash.  These chemicals are linked with developmental and reproductive toxicity and possibly contain 1,4-dioxane*.

*1,4-Dioxane isn’t an intentional ingredient—you won’t ever see it on an ingredient deck.  It is a carcinogen created when ingredients are processed with ethylene oxide, an intermediate petrochemical. According to Environmental Working Group, there are approximately 56 chemicals that may contain this contaminant. In order to elude1,4- dioxane, avoid “PEGs” (polyethylene glycols), “PEs” (polyethylenes), “Xynols” (octoxynol), and “-eths” (sodium laureth sulfate, etc.).

Although it appears that one must have a degree in advanced chemistry to decipher ingredient lists on personal product labels, all one needs to know is where to start, the aspiration to carefully review product claims, and a personal commitment to safe, clean skin and body care.  For more information on this topic, please visit www.GreenSpaNetwork.org.